Doug wrote:For 3-5 min exposures in daylight you probably want to set the camera up to use your ND filters.
I was not very experimental with film.
Back in the day I just wanted a slow film for from the tripod landscape shots. All I ever remember using was Iford PanF 50 ASA for B+W.
Walter would be your man for suggesting films that have characteristics closest to the look you go for in digital.
W G wrote:Alex,
From what I already know of your work and some of the stated techniques you plan to employ there are really only TWO emulsions to consider as a starting point:
Kodak T-Max 100 (TMX)
Fuji Acros (if it is still available)
Why? Because these modern T-Grain emulsions have very very fine grained, sharp and smooth toned characteristics with minimal reciprocity departure.
What is reciprocity departure?
With longer exposures the sensitivity of the film decreases exponentially as exposure time increases and the contrast - and thereby the development necessary - also shifts.
What this might mean is that with a conventional emulsion such as Tri-X or FP4+ an indicated exposure allowing for the NDs and low light might be, for argument's sake, 1 minute. But reciprocity departure might mean that you recalculate the exposure time to as much as 5 minutes. And then the development time might need to be reduced by 30% or more.
Without the long exposures my recommendation would also include FP4+ which is a cracker of a classic film.
Just a starting point ....
Plays with Light wrote:I was admiring some scans from film of yours earlier, in an old thread here, with images scanned for you by someone. Pure NZ beauty!
W G wrote:Here is a link to the data sheet for T-Max. Look at page 5 for long exposure info:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professi ... /f4016.pdf
Compare that with FP4+ graph on page 2:
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/201 ... 850702.pdf
Doug wrote:Plays with Light wrote:I was admiring some scans from film of yours earlier, in an old thread here, with images scanned for you by someone. Pure NZ beauty!
I don't remember the details of that post.
Here is a slideshow of most of those scans, there might be some extras in there.
http://s695.photobucket.com/user/Dug05/ ... ans?sort=3
The scans are of Ektachrome 64 transparency film from the Bronica.
Only one is cropped to straighten the horizon, but all have the cameras aspect ration.
The scans are not a great indication of the film for colour and detail, but you do get the an impression of how shadow detail gets lost with slow transparency film when you expose to preserve bright highlights.
A lot of people swear by Fiji transparency film for its colours. I think I got put off by their marketing examples at the time of this and did not try it first hand.
W G wrote:Alex,
No refrigeration necessary with B&W emulsions (other than chromogenic like XP-2).
Rolls of film, pocket of camera bag, GO!
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