What do you use as a landscape lens?
  • User avatar
    magnum
    Member
    Member
    Posts: 214
    Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2011 1:07 pm
    Location: Brisbane, Qld
    Contact:

    What do you use as a landscape lens?

    by magnum » Fri Jan 27, 2012 2:39 pm

    What lens(es) do members use/prefer for landscapes/cityscapes?

    Interested in views and experiences with both cropped lenses (i.e. EF-S) and full frame (EF) lenses. Also interested in Canon lenses and others.
    Member:
    Australian Photographic Society
    Redlands Uniting Church Camera Club

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/wetzig_photographics/sets/
  • User avatar
    Busiboy
    Site Admin
    Site Admin
    Posts: 3572
    Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:10 pm
    Location: SE Sydney
    Contact:

    by Busiboy » Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:28 pm

    Depends on the subject, up close I'll go wide, from a distance I'll go long.

    Anywhere in between 24 mm and 90 mm 35mm eq

    I don't think the need to go wider is that strong anymore as you can always stitch many 'normal' shots together to create a wide shot with heaps of detail.
    *PPOK*
    C&C always welcome

    Scott
  • beeb
    Golden Cow
    Golden Cow
    Posts: 1815
    Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:44 pm
    Contact:

    by beeb » Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:28 pm

    For the crop-frame the EF-S 15-85mm is a nice versatile lens, and would pretty much replace your 18-55 with an slight all-round improvement in image quality and build, with the plus side that it goes a fair amount wider and longer than the 18-55mm. IMO, if you are seriously thinking about upgrading to 'full-frame' later on though, it'd be better to just use what you have for now and save the money for better EF lenses down the track... With how good photostitching software has gotten these days, an ultra-wide-angle lens isn't really needed unless you're chasing the stronger perspectives that only a UWA lens can deliver when you get up close to things. That and most of the UWA lenses available for the crop-frame bodies look pretty average in terms of their IQ, particularly towards the edges of the frame, lots of diffraction an CA from the sample shots I've seen.

    One other thing - I have a EF 16-35mm L II to use on my 5DII. While I love it now, I hated it when I was using it when I still had my 7D. The wider image circle meant I was forever having bright light-sources throwing light down the lens and flaring in the picture because the lightsource (sun, streetlights, etc..) couldn't be seen in the viewfinder - you'd only realise afterwards.

    So while it is a technically better lens than the 15-85mm, I would say it was a worse lens when mounted on the crop-frame body - the 15-85mm allowed you to get the framing/composition you wanted more easily and more often, as you didn't have to allow for things outside the frame that would otherwise effect the image...

    That's some of my experiences that spring to mind anyway. :)
  • beeb
    Golden Cow
    Golden Cow
    Posts: 1815
    Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:44 pm
    Contact:

    by beeb » Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:29 pm

    Busiboy wrote:I don't think the need to go wider is that strong anymore as you can always stitch many 'normal' shots together to create a wide shot with heaps of detail.


    Haha, beat me to it!

    Damn my rambling posts! :roll: :P
  • User avatar
    boggy
    Cadet
    Cadet
    Posts: 541
    Joined: Thu Jul 27, 2006 6:36 pm
    Location: Baulkham Hills, Sydney
    Contact:

    by boggy » Fri Jan 27, 2012 3:30 pm

    I use the 17-40 and haven't had a prob on the 7d, although on 1d III, i find the full frame curves the edges a little too much.

    As for stitching, try Microsoft ICE. it stitches so easily.

    Cheers

    Boggy
  • Dunnart
    Member
    Member
    Posts: 183
    Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 8:29 pm
    Location: Bathurst
    Contact:

    by Dunnart » Fri Jan 27, 2012 4:20 pm

    I don't use any particular lens, but every now and again, a 10mm fisheye comes in handy :)

    Image
    [/img]
    cheers

    Steve
  • User avatar
    Remorhaz
    Cadet
    Cadet
    Posts: 539
    Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2010 11:22 am
    Location: Sydney
    Contact:

    by Remorhaz » Fri Jan 27, 2012 4:50 pm

    Whilst I agree stitching is now very good and much easier than it used to be, unless you're planning to make a massive resolution image or a very wide one (e.g. > 90 to 120 degrees) I'm not sure I could be bothered to always do that (work out an averaged manual locked exposure, make sure stuff isn't moving inbetween your frames, hope light conditions don't change, etc). Most of the time I'd rather just get it in one shot, plus as inferred above stitching only makes sense when what you're shooting is all far away. Personally I like the perspective you get with a UWA with a very close strong foreground interest along with the sweep away to the background interest.

    When using the wide end for land/city/sea scapes I now generally use either my Tokina 12-24 or the 17-50. I still use my Sigma 8-16 but as it doesn't take filters I only really use it for architecture, indoors or at night (or for stitched pano's :)) - NB: I'm on crop sensor (1.5x).
    D7000,D90,8-16/4.5-5.6,12-24/4,17-50/2.8,18-200/3.5-5.6,50/1.4,90/2.8 Macro,70-200/2.8,70-300/4.5-5.6,SB-900&600,Sirui N2204+K20x,Manfrotto 190+488,Benro MC-91+BH-1
    Rodney - My Photo Blog
    PPOK
  • beeb
    Golden Cow
    Golden Cow
    Posts: 1815
    Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:44 pm
    Contact:

    by beeb » Fri Jan 27, 2012 4:52 pm

    boggy wrote:I use the 17-40 and haven't had a prob on the 7d...


    On that, most of the issues I struck were while doing night shooting in urban areas, so I would accidentally catch streetlights and such which would throw flare through the picture - it wasn't the lenses fault, just highlighting something to be aware of. :wink:
  • User avatar
    LOZ
    Photojournalist
    Photojournalist
    Posts: 2888
    Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:48 am
    Contact:

    by LOZ » Fri Jan 27, 2012 5:31 pm

    Now this may sound funny but it depends on what part of the landscape you wish to capture . In some cases the only lens I could have used was a 70 200 @200 other times 12mm is not wide enough. It just depends on what you need at the time :wink:



    Nikon 70-200 @ 200
    Image
  • User avatar
    AJ
    Cadet
    Cadet
    Posts: 871
    Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2008 2:31 pm
    Location: Whyalla SouthOz
    Contact:

    by AJ » Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:15 pm

    My usual/regular/general landscape shooting combo is 5D with 24-70. Sometimes I use my Sigma 12-24 for big landscapes, often cropping them later into a pano.
    Andrew
    Canon 1D, 5D, 7D & D2000 plus lotsa extras
    See here: http://www.digitalslr.com.au/forum/view ... hp?t=10137

    My photo website http://touring4x4.com
    Travel & photography blog: http://www.touring4x4.com/blog/
    PP is OK
  • beeb
    Golden Cow
    Golden Cow
    Posts: 1815
    Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:44 pm
    Contact:

    by beeb » Sat Jan 28, 2012 11:58 am

    AJ wrote:My usual/regular/general landscape shooting combo is 5D with 24-70. Sometimes I use my Sigma 12-24 for big landscapes, often cropping them later into a pano.


    Is the 12-24 compatible with the full-frame, or only the crop bodies AJ?
  • User avatar
    AJ
    Cadet
    Cadet
    Posts: 871
    Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2008 2:31 pm
    Location: Whyalla SouthOz
    Contact:

    by AJ » Sat Jan 28, 2012 12:44 pm

    beeb wrote:
    AJ wrote:My usual/regular/general landscape shooting combo is 5D with 24-70. Sometimes I use my Sigma 12-24 for big landscapes, often cropping them later into a pano.


    Is the 12-24 compatible with the full-frame, or only the crop bodies AJ?


    The Sigma 12-24 is compatible with full frame.

    Canon 5D/Sigma 12-24 @ 12mm, handheld, ISO100, F14, 1/15s
    Image

    Canon 1D/Sigma 12-24 @14mm, handheld, ISO200, F16, 1/160s
    Image
    Andrew
    Canon 1D, 5D, 7D & D2000 plus lotsa extras
    See here: http://www.digitalslr.com.au/forum/view ... hp?t=10137

    My photo website http://touring4x4.com
    Travel & photography blog: http://www.touring4x4.com/blog/
    PP is OK
  • beeb
    Golden Cow
    Golden Cow
    Posts: 1815
    Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:44 pm
    Contact:

    by beeb » Sat Jan 28, 2012 1:27 pm

    AJ wrote:The Sigma 12-24 is compatible with full frame.


    Holy crap - That's wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide! :shock:

    Don't suppose you have any urban/architectural shots done with it? (Just if you can find them easily...)

    Nothing wrong with those other shots, but it's hard to gauge just how much wider it is than my 16-35mm...
  • User avatar
    AJ
    Cadet
    Cadet
    Posts: 871
    Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2008 2:31 pm
    Location: Whyalla SouthOz
    Contact:

    by AJ » Sat Jan 28, 2012 1:43 pm

    beeb wrote:
    AJ wrote:The Sigma 12-24 is compatible with full frame.


    Holy crap - That's wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiide! :shock:

    Don't suppose you have any urban/architectural shots done with it? (Just if you can find them easily...)

    Nothing wrong with those other shots, but it's hard to gauge just how much wider it is than my 16-35mm...


    Image

    Canon 5D/Sigma 12-24 @ 12mm, tripod/remote, ISO100, F9, 8s
    Image
    Andrew
    Canon 1D, 5D, 7D & D2000 plus lotsa extras
    See here: http://www.digitalslr.com.au/forum/view ... hp?t=10137

    My photo website http://touring4x4.com
    Travel & photography blog: http://www.touring4x4.com/blog/
    PP is OK
  • beeb
    Golden Cow
    Golden Cow
    Posts: 1815
    Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:44 pm
    Contact:

    by beeb » Sat Jan 28, 2012 8:48 pm

    Cheers for that mate- very handy samples!

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests